North Macedonia's capital has a split personality: an Ottoman-era Stara čaršija (the largest old bazaar in the Balkans after Istanbul's), full of mosques, hans and cobbled lanes — and a city centre radically remade by the controversial 'Skopje 2014' project, a neoclassical fever-dream of statues and stuck-on facades. It's a cheap city where the euro stretches twice as far; the real reasons to come are the local food (tavče gravče, ćevap, ajvar) and that old quarter on the north bank.