Curated food

The most famous *kafana* in Skadarlija, open since 1864 — old-town music, *tamburaši*, Serbian cooking in full-sized portions. The place to check in on Belgrade's soul at least once in your life.

Daily 11:00–01:00; *tamburaši* from 20:00.

A modern take on Serbian cooking with one signature flourish — the red umbrellas hanging from the ceiling have become an Instagram meme. Local ingredients, well-executed dishes, a deep *rakija* list.

Daily 09:00–01:00.

Vojvodina cooking in Belgrade — bean stew, *gibanica*, *sarma*, Danube fish soup. Wooden beams and checked tablecloths, the genuine *salaš* feel. Big portions, fair prices.

Daily 12:00–24:00.

The most extravagant restaurant in town — an Italian + Serbian menu in a room stuffed with more than 5,000 decorative objects (dolls, paintings, sculptures; even the toilets are works of art). The owner is the actor Petar Božović. An experience, not just dinner.

Daily 12:00–24:00; reservations essential.

Fine dining with a view of the river confluence — modern Serbian cooking, a 7-course tasting menu, a wine list focused on the region (Aleksandrović, Tikveš, Krš). The best place in Belgrade for a fancy dinner.

Tue–Sun 18:00–24:00; closed Mon; reservations essential.

Herzegovinian cooking in the heart of Belgrade — lamb and veal under the *sač* (bell-lid), *kačamak*, Herzegovinian cabbage. Where Montenegrins in Belgrade come for a taste of home. Big portions, fierce *rakija*.

Daily 11:00–24:00.

The other Skadarlija classic, smaller and more intimate than Tri Šešira. *Tamburaši* circle the street every evening between *kafanas*. Specialities: *gibanica*, *ćevapi*, lamb under the *sač*, *pljeskavica*.

Daily 12:00–01:00; *tamburaši* from 20:00.

A Dorćol local favourite — easy brunch and lunch menus, Mediterranean salads, good coffee. A courtyard built around a fig tree (hence the name); on Sundays it fills with young Belgraders. Solid options for vegetarians.

Daily 09:00–24:00.